France's first national park, an open book on glaciers
Created in 1963, the Parc National de la Vanoise was France's very first national park, designed specifically to protect a massif where glaciers, despite their continuous retreat, still dominate the landscape. The Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise follows the historic trails linking Pralognan-la-Vanoise to the Haute-Maurienne, looping around the Grande Casse, the massif's highest point. Over roughly 83 kilometres and seven days of walking, the route alternates between high-altitude lakes, mineral passes and glacial valleys, in a territory where ibex and marmots have been at home for far longer than hikers.
This is no simple ridge trail: it is a complete crossing of the heart of the park, a protected area where every step is a reminder that this landscape took millennia to shape and continues to evolve before our eyes, at the pace of the glacial retreat that redraws the ice fronts year after year. It is also a demanding route, reserved for hikers already seasoned in high mountain terrain and its unstable ground.
Day-by-day itinerary
| Day | Stage | Distance | Ascent / Descent | Duration |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pralognan-la-Vanoise → Refuge du Col de la Vanoise | 5.8 km | 1100 m / 0 m | 4h |
| 2 | Refuge du Col de la Vanoise → Refuge de l'Arpont | 14.1 km | 250 m / 455 m | 6h |
| 3 | Refuge de l'Arpont → Plan Sec / Montana / Dent Parrachée / Fournache / Fond d'Aussois area (Plan d'Amont / Plan d'Aval) | 15.4 km | 505 m / 615 m | 6h-7h |
| 4 | Plan d'Amont → Col de la Masse (2930 m) → Refuge-porte de l'Orgère | 14 km | 725 m / 990 m | 7h |
| 5 | Refuge-porte de l'Orgère → Refuge de Péclet-Polset | 8.8 km | 860 m / 325 m | ~4h |
| 6 | Refuge de Péclet-Polset → Refuge de la Valette | 17.5 km | 875 m / 760 m | 7h30 |
| 7 | Refuge de la Valette → Pralognan-la-Vanoise | 8.1 km | 285 m / 1450 m | 5h |
Total: approximately 83 km, +4600 m / -4595 m, over 7 days.
A loop between passes, lakes and glaciers
The classic route begins at Les Fontanettes, the starting point of a steady climb to the Lac des Vaches. This lake is crossed via broad rock slabs laid out like giant steps, with the slender silhouette of the Aiguille de la Vanoise as a backdrop. Crossing the Col de la Vanoise, at 2,516 metres, marks the entry, on the very first day, into a more mineral world of rock outcrops and close-cropped alpine grassland, leading to the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise.
The route then continues along a spectacular balcony path high above the Haute-Maurienne valley, all the way to the Refuge de l'Arpont, a technical stage alternating between smooth slabs and unstable scree crossings. The third day then crosses the Plan Sec, Montana, Dent Parrachée and Fournache area, before descending towards the Fond d'Aussois and the Plan d'Amont and Plan d'Aval reservoirs, two strikingly turquoise-blue lakes set amid stark grey ridges.
"Here, the glaciers do not tell a fixed story: every year, their retreat slightly redraws the map that Vanoise hikers follow."
The most demanding part of the tour comes on the fourth day, with the crossing of the Col de la Masse, at 2,930 metres, the dramatic high point of the route. From this windswept, mineral pass, the view plunges down into the pristine Orgère valley, where the trail descends to the Refuge-porte de l'Orgère. The following days string together one glacial valley after another: on to the Refuge de Péclet-Polset, then the Refuge de la Valette, before the long final descent, dropping 1,450 metres, which closes the loop back at Pralognan-la-Vanoise. Hikers looking for a shorter alternative should note that another version of the tour exists, passing via the Col de Chavière, though it is not part of the route described here.
Practical tips for planning the trek
The best time for this tour runs from early July to mid-September, when the high passes are generally passable without mountaineering gear. Snow cover varies considerably from year to year, so it is advisable to check conditions on the passes before setting off, particularly the Col de la Masse, which can hold late-lying snow patches well into summer.
As for gear, sturdy high-cut hiking boots, warm clothing to be worn in layers, and telescopic trekking poles are strongly recommended: temperature swings between early morning and midday can be severe at altitude, and the long descents, sometimes exceeding a thousand metres of elevation loss, put heavy strain on the knees.
Regarding wild camping, the rules in force within the core of the Parc National de la Vanoise are strict and may change from one season to the next, covering permitted areas, time windows, and booking procedures. Rather than relying on a fixed set of instructions, it is essential to check the national park's official website before departure to find out which sectors are open to wild camping and what steps to follow at the time of the hike.
For food supplies, the huts along the route generally offer full meals and the option to order a packed lunch for the next day, which can significantly lighten the backpack. It remains wise, however, to book overnight stays well in advance, given how busy the park is in summer, and to confirm availability and capacity directly with the hut wardens, as these can vary from year to year depending on snow conditions.