The Néouvielle Loop

A massif apart in the Pyrenean range

Néouvielle holds a singular place among the Pyrenean massifs. Where the range elsewhere alternates limestone and dark schist, this summit rises from a bedrock of pale granite, worn by successive glaciations into rounded peaks and countless basins. This mineral nature explains the area's distinctive light — an almost desert-like clarity, sharpened by quartz glinting off the water — and it earned the heart of the massif nature reserve status as early as 1935, one of the oldest in France. The Tour du Néouvielle draws its whole character from this: three days and roughly 36 kilometers to complete the loop, starting from Tournaboup near Barèges, around a high plateau that packs more than seventy lakes and tarns into a small area, a density rarely matched anywhere in the Pyrenees.

The circuit remains within reach of moderately experienced hikers, provided they accept terrain that turns technical at times higher up: granite boulders to negotiate, late-lying snow patches on the highest passes, and paths that are sometimes faint through the rockfields. This is not high alpine mountaineering, but nor is it a simple stroll by the water — the first day, which climbs directly from Tournaboup to the Refuge de Bastan, concentrates most of the trip's physical effort, while the third day brings its own challenge at the Hourquette d'Aubert crossing.

"Here, the granite doesn't reach for height but for multiplication: every shelf hides a lake, and every lake closes the silence in a little further."

Day-by-day itinerary

The route below follows the official three-stage itinerary, with overnight stops in refuges. Distances and elevation gains correspond to the reference track: depending on the variants taken around the sentier des Laquettes or the lacs d'Aumar et d'Aubert, the actual route may vary by a few hundred meters.

Over the whole loop, cumulative elevation change comes to roughly 2387 m of ascent and 2378 m of descent. The first stage, the shortest in distance but the steepest, demands the most energy; the two following days, though longer, unfold over generally easier terrain.

Word of caution: the Refuge de Bastan is currently closed for safety reasons. A reopening has been mentioned for around July 2026, but this timeline is not guaranteed and may slip — it is essential to check the refuge's status directly with its manager or with the Vallées de Gavarnie tourist office before setting out, and to have a fallback plan (authorized bivouac or an alternative stage) in case the refuge is still closed when you pass through.

A circuit of the great Pyrenean lakes

The route sets off from Tournaboup, just outside Barèges, where the trail climbs without detour through a dense forest of Scots pines and then mountain pines, before opening onto the first granite boulder fields. This first stage, the most demanding of the trip with over 1280 meters of elevation gain, leads up to the Refuge de Bastan, tucked among a scattering of small tarns where the sound of water replaces that of the wind.

The second day descends with relative gentleness toward the lacs de Bastan, then reaches the sizeable lac de l'Oule before dropping down to the Refuge d'Orédon, set on the shore of its namesake lake. This is the shortest and least rugged stage of the loop, a welcome transition after the previous day's climb.

The third stage closes the loop back to Tournaboup via the sentier des Laquettes — Les Laquettes, a string of basins framed by close-cropped meadows — before skirting the lacs d'Aumar et d'Aubert, two of the massif's largest bodies of water. The trail then crosses the Hourquette d'Aubert, at 2498 meters, a rocky passage where late snow patches — sometimes lingering into July in certain years — call for caution, and even poles early in the season. From this pass, the view takes in a good part of the reserve and, on a clear day, the flanks of the Pic de Néouvielle, which rises to 3091 meters. The descent continues past the lac Blanc and then the lac dets Coubous, before rejoining Tournaboup and closing the loop.

Planning your trip

The most favorable period generally runs from mid-June to the end of September, once most of the snow has melted from the higher passes — though this window shifts from year to year depending on the winter snowpack, so it's worth checking recent conditions before heading out early or late in the season. As for gear, the essentials are footwear with good grip on granite, sunglasses that offer solid coverage to cut down on glare off the water and quartz, and a filtering water bottle to keep pack weight down.

Bivouacking calls for particular care in this area. The Réserve Naturelle du Néouvielle enforces strict camping and bivouac regulations, which vary by zone and by period: some areas are occasionally open to bivouacking outside daytime visiting hours, while others are closed depending on the ecological sensitivity of the moment. The Orédon and Aubert sectors are historically the ones where bivouacking is most often tolerated, but the precise rules — hours, exact zones, seasonal allowances — are set and updated by the reserve itself. It's best to check this directly with the Réserve Naturelle du Néouvielle before setting out, rather than relying on information that may have changed from one season to the next.

For supplies, the staffed refuge at l'Oule, close to the second day's route, generally offers meals and snacks in season. The Refuge de Bastan, when open, plays the same role at the end of the first stage — which is why it's important to confirm its status before departure, as otherwise you'll need to be self-sufficient for the first night's food. The Refuge d'Orédon also provides a resupply point at the end of the second stage and before setting off on the third day toward Les Laquettes, Aumar and Aubert, a stretch where opportunities to restock become scarcer.